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Why Building Your Own Cabinets is the Smarter Choice
In today’s market, buying pre-made cabinets for your kitchen or garage can be an expensive endeavor. The cost of quality kitchen cabinets can easily run into thousands of dollars, often pushing the budget of a full remodel well beyond expectations. Even standard-grade cabinets can cost between $100 to $400 per linear foot, while custom options can be upwards of $500 to $1,200 per linear foot. Similarly, garage cabinets, often marketed as durable and customizable, can also be a significant expense, especially if you’re looking for something beyond the basic particleboard units that don’t hold up over time.
The Problem: High Costs and Limited Customization
The biggest challenges homeowners face when buying cabinets are the steep costs and the lack of true customization. You’re often left choosing between what’s available rather than what best fits your space and needs. This can be particularly frustrating in unique spaces like garages, where storage needs vary greatly and off-the-shelf options often fall short.
The Solution: Invest in DIY
Investing in some basic woodworking tools and building your own cabinets can be a game-changer. Not only does it offer a cost-effective solution, but it also provides the satisfaction of creating something tailor-made for your space. With a DIY plan like the one provided, you have the freedom to customize dimensions, styles, and finishes to perfectly match your home’s needs and aesthetics.
Cost Efficiency:
The initial investment in basic tools—such as a drill, saw, and router—might seem like an extra cost, but when compared to the price of buying cabinets, it’s a small fraction. The cost of materials for building a quality cabinet is significantly lower, allowing you to stretch your budget further. You’re not paying for brand names or the markup that comes with pre-assembled units. Instead, your money goes directly into quality materials and the tools that will serve you for multiple projects.
DIY Cabinet Features That Save You More:
- Durable Construction: By using 3/4″ plywood and 1/4″ backing, your cabinets will be stronger and more durable than many of the mass-produced options available.
- Customization at No Extra Cost: With DIY, you can add features like adjustable shelves, soft-close hinges, and premium finishes without the hefty upgrade costs.
- Satisfaction and Skills: Building your own cabinets not only saves money but also equips you with valuable skills and the satisfaction of crafting something yourself.
Why This DIY Plan Solves the Problem:
This DIY plan takes the guesswork out of building your own cabinets. It’s designed with clear, step-by-step instructions, detailed diagrams, and a comprehensive materials list, making the process accessible even for beginners. You’ll get a professional finish without needing to be a professional woodworker. The plan includes everything down to the precise placement of screws, ensuring that your build is straightforward and stress-free.
What’s Included in the DIY Plan
When you purchase this DIY plan, you’re not just getting a basic guide—you’re receiving a comprehensive, detailed toolkit designed to make your project as smooth and successful as possible. Here’s what’s included:
Step-by-Step Written Instructions: Every step is clearly outlined in a written format that’s easy to follow, from the initial cuts to the final assembly. Each step is broken down into manageable tasks, ensuring you never feel overwhelmed.
Detailed Visual Diagrams: The plan includes high-quality, color-coded diagrams that visually guide you through each step. These diagrams are designed to be intuitive, showing exactly where each piece goes and how it fits together.
Tools List: A complete list of tools needed for the project, with links to recommended products. This ensures you have everything you need before you start, saving you time and potential frustration.
Materials and Lumber Shopping Lists: Detailed lists of all the materials and lumber required, including precise measurements and quantities. These lists are optimized to minimize waste and cost, so you buy only what you need.
Cut Optimization Guide: Maximize the use of your plywood and lumber with a cut optimization guide that lays out the most efficient way to make all your cuts. This helps you save money and reduce waste.
Cost Estimates: A breakdown of the estimated costs for all materials, so you can budget your project accurately and ensure it fits within your financial goals.
Print-Friendly Format: The entire guide is designed to be print-friendly, allowing you to easily take it into your workshop. Keep the instructions and diagrams on hand as you build, ensuring you’re always on the right track.
Beginner-Friendly Design: This plan is crafted with beginners in mind, making sure that even those new to woodworking can follow along and achieve professional results. Each step, cut, and placement is detailed down to the exact position of screws and fasteners.
With this DIY plan, you have everything you need to confidently tackle your cabinet project, knowing you have professional guidance every step of the way. It’s more than just a plan; it’s a complete package designed to help you succeed.
Ready to Build?
Choosing to build your own cabinets with this plan means you’re not just saving money—you’re investing in your home, your skills, and your satisfaction. Download the plan today and start creating the perfect cabinets for your kitchen or garage, all while keeping your budget firmly under control. Let’s make your space work for you, without the hefty price tag of store-bought options.
Time
(varies with experience)
Cost
$(Costs may vary based on location and supplier.)
Skill level required
Beginner
DIY Wall Cabinet PDF Plan
What is included in the PDF download?
- Easy to read step by step instructions
- Material list
- Tools needed
- Helpful links to materials and tools needed
DIY Wall Cabinet Dimensions
Tools and Materials Needed for Cabinet Construction
Tools:
- Jigsaw or Circular Saw – For cutting notches in the side panels to create the toe kick (Step 1.1).
- Router with 1/4″ and 23/32″ Straight Bits – Required for cutting grooves in side panels and floor panel to assemble the cabinet carcass using dado joints (Steps 1.2, 1.3, 2.2).
- Shelf Pin Jig – Ensures precise and evenly spaced holes for adjustable shelf pins (Step 1.4).
- Drill with 1/4″ Drill Bit – Used to drill shelf pin holes and other necessary pilot holes (Step 1.4).
- Pocket Hole Jig – For drilling pocket holes in stretchers, drawer components, and face frames, providing strong, hidden joints (Steps 3.1, 8.2).
- Clamps – Essential for holding components in place during assembly and while glue sets, ensuring proper alignment (Various Steps).
- Power Drill or Cordless Drill – For driving screws and securing components during assembly and hinge installation (Various Steps).
- Kreg KHI-HINGE Concealed Hinge Jig – Assists in precise placement and drilling of hinge cup holes for Euro hinges, simplifying hinge installation (Step 11).
- Pin Nailer or Brad Nailer – Used to secure face frames, back panels, and trim pieces like the toe kick (Steps 3.7, 11.6, 11.7).
- Level – To ensure that the cabinets are level and properly aligned during installation (Step 12).
- Stud Finder – Locates studs in the wall to securely attach cabinets (Step 12.2).
- Miter Saw or Handsaw – For cutting precise lengths of trim pieces, such as toe kicks (Step 12.3).
- Table Saw – Essential for making precise cuts in wood and achieving accurate dimensions for your project.
- Sander + Sanding Disks (Variety) – A sander is necessary for smoothing out surfaces. Use a variety of sanding disks to achieve the desired finish.
- Router Bits Tongue & Groove Set (3/4-Inch, 2 Bit) –
For creating tongue and groove joints, which are essential for cabinet assembly and joinery work.
Materials:
- Euro Hinges (Soft-Close, 1/2″ Partial Overlay) – Allows for smooth, soft-closing of cabinet doors, enhancing usability and appearance (Step 11).
- Wood Glue – Used extensively throughout the project to bond components securely; a critical element in building strong joints (Various Steps).
- Pocket Hole Screws (1-1/4″) – Used with the pocket hole jig to assemble stretchers, face frames, and drawer components, providing hidden yet strong connections (Various Steps).
- Cabinet Screws (2-1/2″) – Utilized for attaching cabinets securely to wall studs, providing stability and safety (Step 12.2).
- Finishing Nails or Brad Nails – Used for attaching trim, such as toe kicks, and other light components securely (Step 12.3).
- Shelf Pins – Provide adjustable support for shelves within the cabinet, allowing for customization of storage space (Step 4.2).
- Drawer Slides (1/2 inch) –
Required for the smooth operation of drawers, providing a sturdy and reliable sliding mechanism.
Affiliate Link Notice:
I only recommend tools and materials that I have personally used or trust. By purchasing through my affiliate links, you support my work at no additional cost to you. Your support helps me continue providing quality DIY guides and projects!
Lumber Shopping & Cut List
Lumber Shopping List:
1×2 Lumber – 3 pieces, 8 ft long per cabinet
1×3 Lumber – 2 pieces, 8 ft long per cabinet
1×4 Lumber – Quantity as needed per cabinet assembly
1/4″ Thick Plywood Sheet (4ft x 8ft) – 1 sheet per cabinet (Refer to the PDF document titled “Base Cabinet 1_4_ Thick Plywood Cut Optimization” for cut optimization.)
3/4″ Thick Plywood Sheet (4ft x 8ft) – 1 sheet per cabinet (Refer to the PDF document titled “Base Cabinet 3_4_ Thick Plywood Cut Optimization” for cut optimization.)
Detailed Cut List: Cabinet Project
Panels
- Side Panels: (2) – 3/4″ plywood, 34-1/2″ x 23-1/2″
- Floor Panel: (1) – 3/4″ plywood, 31″ x 23-1/2″
- Back Panel: (1) – 1/4″ plywood, 31″ x 29-3/4″
Stretchers
- Stretchers: (6) – 3/4″ plywood, 30-1/2″ x 4-1/4″
Shelves
- Adjustable Shelf: (1) – 3/4″ plywood, 30-1/2″ x 21-3/4″
- Shelf Lip: (1) – 1×2 lumber, 30-1/2″
Face Frame
- Rails: (3) – 1×2 lumber, 28-15/16″
- Stiles: (2) – 1×2 lumber, 31″
- Center Stile (Version B): (1) – 1×3 lumber, 21-1/2″
Drawer Components
- Drawer Sides: (2) – 3/4″ plywood, 21″ x 4-1/4″
- Drawer Back: (1) – 3/4″ plywood, 26-9/16″ x 4-1/4″
- Drawer Front: (1) – 3/4″ plywood, 26-9/16″ x 3-1/2″
- Drawer Bottom: (1) – 1/4″ plywood, 27-1/16″ x 20-1/2″
Drawer Slides
- Drawer Slide Spacers: (2) 1×3 lumber, 22-1/2″ – Used to mount drawer slides inside the cabinet
Doors
- Door Stiles: (4) – 1×3 lumber, 23-1/4″
- Door Rails: (4) – 1×2 lumber, 10-1/4″
- Door Center Panel: (1) – 1/4″ plywood, 20-5/8″ x 10-1/4″
Drawer Front Assembly
- Stiles: (2) – 1×3 lumber, 6″
- Rails: (2) – 1×2 lumber, 25″
- Center Panel: (1) – 1/4″ plywood, 25-1/2″ x 3-1/2″
Optional Components
- False Center Stile (Version A): (1) – 1×3 lumber, 21-1/2″
Toe Kick
- Toe Kick Trim: (1) – 1×4 lumber, cut to cabinet base length
Common Wood Types for Cabinets
1. Plywood
Overview: Plywood is an engineered wood made from thin layers of wood veneer glued together. It’s a top choice for cabinet construction due to its strength and versatility.
Pros:
- Strength and Stability: Ideal for structural components like sides, backs, and bases.
- Cost-Effective: Provides strong support without the high cost of solid wood.
- Variety of Grades: Available in grades from A to C, with A-grade offering a smooth finish suitable for visible areas.
- Availability: Widely available at Home Depot and Lowe’s in various thicknesses (1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″) and types, including hardwood veneers like oak, maple, and birch.
Cons:
- Edge Finishing: Requires additional finishing, like edge banding, for exposed edges.
- Moisture Sensitivity: Can warp if not properly sealed against moisture.
Recommendation: Use 3/4″ plywood for cabinet carcasses and shelves as detailed in the DIY plan for durability and strength.
2. MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard)
Overview: MDF is made from wood fibers bonded with resin under pressure, offering a smooth surface perfect for painting.
Pros:
- Smooth Surface: Great for painted finishes due to its uniform surface.
- Affordable: Less expensive than plywood and solid wood.
- Uniformity: No grain or knots, making it easier to work with for detailed cuts.
Cons:
- Poor Moisture Resistance: Swells and deteriorates when exposed to moisture.
- Heavy: Its density makes it heavier and more challenging to handle.
Recommendation: Use MDF for cabinet doors and decorative panels, but avoid in moisture-prone areas unless sealed.
3. Solid Wood Options
Solid wood adds a classic, high-quality look to cabinets and is typically used for doors, drawer fronts, and face frames.
Maple:
- Pros: Hard and durable, smooth grain for staining or painting.
- Cons: Moderate cost, can be more expensive than birch.
- Best For: High-traffic areas needing durability.
Oak:
- Pros: Strong and wear-resistant with a traditional grain.
- Cons: Heavy grain can be difficult to paint smoothly.
- Best For: Traditional or rustic cabinet styles.
Cherry:
- Pros: Elegant with a rich patina that deepens over time, smooth grain.
- Cons: Higher cost, softer than maple, prone to dents.
- Best For: High-end, refined cabinet designs.
Birch:
- Pros: Economical, easy to work with, takes stain well.
- Cons: Softer than other hardwoods, more susceptible to scratches.
- Best For: Budget-friendly projects that still want a hardwood look.
Availability: Home Depot and Lowe’s often stock these woods in various formats, including solid lumber and veneer plywood.
Woods to Avoid for Cabinets
Pine:
- Cons: Soft and prone to damage, knots can bleed through finishes.
- Best For: Only recommended for rustic or decorative uses.
Particleboard:
- Cons: Weak, prone to sagging and moisture damage, not durable.
- Best For: Avoid for structural components; limited to low-cost interiors.
Industry Standards for Cabinet Wood in the USA
- Plywood: The go-to for structural integrity in cabinet bases, sides, and shelving.
- MDF: Preferred for painted finishes, especially on doors and panels.
- Solid Wood: Typically used for face frames, doors, and drawer fronts where aesthetics and durability are key.
Where to Buy
For DIY builders, the most convenient sources are major retailers like Home Depot and Lowe’s, which carry a variety of plywood, MDF, and solid wood suitable for cabinet projects. Always check availability and compare grades to ensure you’re getting the best material for your specific needs.
Final Tips
- Check Wood Grades: For plywood, choose higher grades for visible areas.
- Plan for Moisture: Use moisture-resistant wood or seal properly in high-humidity areas like kitchens and bathrooms.
- Evaluate Costs: Balance your budget with the quality needed for your project; sometimes spending a bit more on higher-quality wood can save costs in the long run through durability.
Choosing the right wood is a critical step in building cabinets that are both beautiful and functional. This guide ensures you’re equipped with the knowledge to make the best decision for your DIY cabinet project, aligning with the industry standards and what’s readily available at popular home improvement stores.
Step 1: Prepare the Wall Cabinet Side Panels
In this step, you will modify two side panels by cutting grooves for dado joints and the back panel, and drilling shelf pin holes. This will prepare the panels for the assembly process.
Follow these steps carefully to ensure the panels are correctly prepared.
1.1 Gather Materials and Tools
- Materials:
- Two 3/4″ thick plywood sheets, each measuring 12″ x 42″.
- Tools:
- 23/32″ straight router bit
- 1/4″ straight router bit
- 1/4″ drill bit
- Shelf pin jig
- Router
- Drill
1.2 Cut Dado Grooves for the Floor and Ceiling Panels
- Set up your router with the 23/32″ straight router bit.
- Set the router depth to cut a 1/4″ deep groove.
- Mark the locations for the grooves:
- One groove near the bottom edge (for the floor panel).
- One groove near the top edge (for the ceiling panel).
- Cut the grooves on both side panels in the same locations using the 23/32″ bit.
- These grooves will act as dado joints where the floor and ceiling panels will attach.
1.3 Cut the Groove for the Back Panel
- Switch to the 1/4″ straight router bit on your router.
- Set the depth to 1/4″.
- Cut an additional groove along the back edge of both side panels.
- This groove will hold the back panel securely in place.
- Ensure the grooves are clean and free of debris for a snug fit during assembly.
1.4 Drill Shelf Pin Holes
- Use the shelf pin jig to help with accurate hole spacing.
- Mark the drilling locations for shelf pin holes on the interior sides of both panels.
- Attach the 1/4″ drill bit to your drill.
- Drill evenly spaced holes along the marked lines, following the jig for consistency.
- These holes will allow you to use adjustable shelf pins for the cabinet.
1.5 Verify the Panels
By the end of this step, you should have two mirror-image side panels. Each panel should have:
- 23/32″ grooves at the top and bottom for the floor and ceiling panels.
- 1/4″ grooves along the back edge for the back panel.
- Shelf pin holes drilled neatly and evenly using the jig.
Final Check:
- Ensure all cuts are clean and consistent.
- Double-check that both side panels mirror each other exactly—any misalignment can cause issues during assembly.
Step 2: Prepare the Ceiling, Floor, and Back Panels
In this step, you will modify the ceiling and floor panels to fit with the back panel, ensuring everything is ready for assembly. You will also introduce the back panel itself, so all these components are prepared for integration in the next step.
2.1 Gather Materials and Tools
- Materials:
- Two 3/4″ thick plywood sheets, each measuring 12″ x 31″ (ceiling and floor panels).
- One 1/4″ thick plywood sheet, measuring 39-1/2″ x 31″ (back panel).
- Tools:
- 1/4″ straight router bit
- Router
2.2 Cut the Groove for the Back Panel
- Attach the 1/4″ straight router bit to your router.
- Set the depth to 1/4″ to match the thickness of the back panel.
- Mark the location of the groove on the rear side of both the ceiling and floor panels.
- This groove will run along the back edge of both panels.
- Carefully cut the groove along the back edge of both panels, ensuring it aligns properly.
- This groove will later accommodate the back panel to ensure a flush fit.
2.3 Prepare the Back Panel
- Take the 1/4″ thick plywood sheet measuring 39-1/2″ x 31″.
- Check that the back panel fits smoothly into the grooves you just cut on the ceiling and floor panels.
- Set the back panel aside with the ceiling and floor panels to have all components ready for the next step.
2.4 Verify the Components
By the end of this step, you should have:
- Two 3/4″ plywood panels (ceiling and floor) with 1/4″ grooves cut along the back edges.
- One 1/4″ thick back panel (39-1/2″ x 31″) ready for integration.
- All components neatly prepared and aligned for the upcoming assembly.
Step 3: Assemble the Cabinet Carcass
In this step, you will integrate the side panels, ceiling and floor panels, and the back panel to build the main structure, or carcass, of your wall cabinet.
3.1 Gather Materials and Tools
- Materials:
- Two side panels from Step 1
- One ceiling panel and one floor panel from Step 2
- One back panel from Step 2
- Wood glue
- Tools:
- Clamps (wood clamps)
- Sandpaper (fine-grit)
3.2 Attach the First Side Panel
- Take one of the side panels from Step 1.
- Apply wood glue along the dado joint (23/32″ groove) where the ceiling and floor panels will fit.
- Insert the floor panel and ceiling panel into the corresponding grooves on the side panel.
- Pro Tip: If the panels feel tight, use fine-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the edges. This will ensure a smooth fit, but be careful not to over-sand.
3.3 Insert the Back Panel
- Slide the back panel (from Step 2) into the 1/4″ grooves along the rear edges of the ceiling, floor, and side panels.
- Ensure the back panel is flush and fits snugly into the grooves.
3.4 Attach the Second Side Panel
- Apply glue along the dado joint of the second side panel.
- Align the second side panel with the ceiling and floor panels, ensuring the grooves line up properly.
- Gently slide the second side panel into place, making sure all panels fit neatly together.
3.5 Clamp the Assembly
- Use wood clamps to hold the entire cabinet structure in place.
- Pro Tip: Tighten the clamps just enough to hold the structure securely. Do not overtighten, as it can squeeze out too much glue or warp the panels.
- Double-check the alignment to ensure all panels are square and flush before the glue sets.
3.6 Final Check
- Confirm that all components are properly aligned and flush at the edges.
- Clean up any excess glue with a damp cloth while it’s still wet.
- Leave the cabinet clamped and allow the glue to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions (usually 24 hours).
Step 4: Add the Stretchers to the Cabinet Assembly
In this step, you will prepare and install two stretchers to reinforce the cabinet carcass and provide structural stability.
4.1 Gather Materials and Tools
- Materials:
- Two stretcher pieces: 30-1/2″ x 4-1/4″, cut from 3/4″ thick plywood
- Wood glue
- 1-1/4″ pocket screws
- Tools:
- Drill with pocket hole jig
- Clamps
- Pocket hole drill bit
4.2 Prepare the Stretchers
- Cut two stretcher pieces measuring 30-1/2″ x 4-1/4″ from the 3/4″ plywood.
- Set up a pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes along both ends of each stretcher as shown in the diagram.
4.3 Attach the Stretchers
- Apply wood glue to the edges of the stretchers that will contact the cabinet carcass.
- Position the first stretcher across the top of the cabinet, making sure it aligns correctly with the carcass edges.
- Secure the first stretcher with 1-1/4″ pocket screws through the pre-drilled pocket holes.
- Repeat the process with the second stretcher at the lower part of the cabinet.
4.4 Check for Alignment
- Ensure the stretchers are flush with the edges of the cabinet carcass.
- Adjust with clamps as needed to maintain alignment while the glue sets.
- Wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth.
Step 5: Build and Attach the Face Frame
In this step, you will build the face frame to give your wall cabinet a polished and professional look, and attach it to the cabinet carcass. The face frame provides structural integrity and enhances the overall aesthetics.
5.1 Gather Materials and Tools
Materials:
- Two 1×2 lumber pieces, 28-15/16″ long
- Two 1×2 lumber pieces, 42″ long
- One 1×3 lumber piece, 39″ long
- Wood glue
- 1-1/4″ pocket screws
Tools:
- Pocket hole jig and drill
- Clamps
- Pin nailer with pin nails (optional)
- Sandpaper
5.2 Assemble the Face Frame
Cut the lumber pieces to size:
- Two 28-15/16″ pieces for the top and bottom rails
- Two 42″ 1×2 pieces for the vertical sides.
- One 39″ 1×3 piece for the center rail.
Set up your pocket hole jig and drill pocket holes at the ends of the horizontal pieces (as shown in the diagram).
- Tip: Ensure the pocket holes are positioned on the back side of the face frame to remain hidden after installation.
Apply wood glue to the ends of the vertical and horizontal pieces.
Assemble the frame by securing the pieces together with 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Use clamps to hold everything in place while driving in the screws.
5.3 Prepare the Face Frame for Attachment
- Sand down the entire face frame to ensure smooth edges and eliminate any splinters.
- Tip: Pay extra attention to corners and joints to ensure they are flush and even.
5.4 Attach the Face Frame to the Cabinet
Apply wood glue along the front edges of the cabinet carcass.
Position the face frame onto the cabinet carcass, ensuring it aligns perfectly with the edges of the cabinet.
If painting the cabinet:
- Use a pin nailer to drive pin nails directly through the face frame and into the cabinet carcass.
- Tip: The small holes from the pin nails can be easily filled and sanded smooth before painting.
If staining the cabinet:
- Avoid using pin nails to prevent visible holes. Instead:
- Use tape or clamps to hold the face frame securely in place while the glue dries.
- Avoid using pin nails to prevent visible holes. Instead:
Let the glue dry fully before moving on to the next steps.
Step 6: Making the Cabinet Face Frame (Version B)
In this step, you’ll build Version B of the cabinet face frame. Unlike Version A, this version includes a fixed center stile attached directly to the face frame, offering a different set of pros and cons compared to the false stile approach.
Pros and Cons of Version B (Fixed Center Stile on Face Frame)
Pros:
- No Specific Opening Sequence: With the fixed center stile, the cabinet doors can be opened and closed in any order, making everyday use straightforward and intuitive.
- Simpler Assembly: Version B has a simpler structure that does not rely on the false stile mechanism, making it easier for those who prefer a more traditional cabinet design.
Cons:
- Limited Access: The fixed center stile can obstruct access to the interior of the cabinet, making it harder to reach larger or longer items.
- Shelf Removal Restriction: While the shelf remains adjustable up and down, it cannot be fully removed from the cabinet due to the center stile.
Note: The first image in this step illustrates Version B with the fixed center stile, while the first image in Step 5 shows Version A. Choose the version that best suits your needs and preferences.
Step 9: Building the Cabinet Doors
In this step, you will build two cabinet doors using stiles, rails, and a plywood center panel. Follow these detailed sub-steps to ensure your doors are correctly assembled and aligned.
9.1 Cut the Stiles and Rails
Materials Needed:
- Two 1×3 lumber pieces, each 23-1/4″ long (stiles, color-coded in gray).
- Two 1×2 lumber pieces, each 10-1/4″ long (rails, color-coded in brown).
Sub-Steps:
- Cut the Stiles:
- Measure and cut two pieces of 1×3 lumber to 23-1/4″ in length. These will form the vertical sides (stiles) of the door.
- Cut the Rails:
- Measure and cut two pieces of 1×2 lumber to 10-1/4″ in length. These will form the horizontal top and bottom pieces (rails) of the door.
- Cut the Stiles:
Step 11: Attaching Euro Hinges, Adding a False Center Stile, and Installing the Drawer Face
In this step, you’ll install the soft-close cabinet door hinges and the drawer face, and, if you chose Option A for the face frame, you’ll also add the false center stile to the door. We’ll be using the Kreg KHI-HINGE Concealed Hinge Jig to ensure precise and easy hinge installation.
To see a visual example of how to attach hinges, refer to this YouTube video.
Tools and Materials Needed:
- Soft-Close Hinges: 1/2″ partial overlay with a 100-degree opening angle.
- Kreg KHI-HINGE Concealed Hinge Jig: For accurate hinge cup hole placement.
- 35mm Forstner Bit: Included with the Kreg jig.
- Power Drill: For drilling hinge cup holes and pilot holes.
- Clamps: To hold the jig and door securely.
- Pencil and Measuring Tape: For marking hinge positions.
- Screws: Provided with the hinges for securing the hinges and mounting plates.
Step 11.1: Prepare and Mark Hinge Locations
- Mark Hinge Locations on the Door: Measure 4 inches from the top and bottom edges of each cabinet door and mark these spots. This spacing is standard for most cabinet doors, offering balanced support and functionality.
- Position the Kreg Jig: Place the Kreg hinge jig at the marked spots on the door. Ensure the jig is correctly set for the desired cup distance (commonly 3mm from the door edge), aligning the index line on the jig with the marks.
Step 11.2: Drill the Hinge Cup Holes
- Set Up the Kreg Jig: Adjust the jig’s settings for the proper cup distance and depth. Most concealed hinges require a 12-13mm (about 1/2 inch) depth for the hinge cup.
- Drill the Holes: Using the 35mm Forstner bit, drill the cup holes at the marked spots. The Kreg jig’s stop collar will prevent you from drilling too deep, ensuring the hole is at the correct depth for the hinge to sit flush with the door surface.
Step 11.3: Attach Hinges to the Door
- Insert the Hinges: Fit the hinges into the drilled cup holes, ensuring they sit flush and aligned.
- Secure the Hinges: Use the provided screws to attach the hinges securely to the door. Avoid overtightening to prevent damage to the door or stripping the screws.
Final Step: Preparing and Painting Your Cabinets
Achieving a smooth, professional finish on your cabinets requires careful preparation and precise painting techniques. This step combines the preparation and painting processes into one comprehensive guide.
Step 1: Preparing the Cabinets for Painting
Clean the Cabinets:
- Start by thoroughly cleaning all cabinet surfaces with a degreaser like Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) or a commercial degreasing product. This step is crucial to remove grease, dirt, and other residues that can affect paint adhesion.
Sanding:
- Sand all surfaces with 120- to 150-grit sandpaper to create a rough texture for the primer to adhere to. Use a random orbital sander for flat surfaces and sanding sponges for detailed areas.
- After the initial sanding, progress to finer grits, such as 180-220, to smooth the surfaces while maintaining enough texture for the primer.
Fill Imperfections:
- Fill any gaps, holes, or imperfections with a high-quality wood filler. Sand these areas smooth once the filler is dry.
Remove Dust:
- Use a vacuum with a brush attachment, followed by a tack cloth, to remove all sanding dust from the surfaces. This ensures a clean base for the primer.
Step 2: Priming the Cabinets
- Apply Primer:
- Use a high-quality bonding primer suitable for cabinetry. Apply a thin, even coat using a brush, roller, or spray gun. Make sure to cover all surfaces, including edges and detailed areas.
- Let the primer dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any rough spots. Wipe down with a tack cloth to remove dust.
Step 3: Painting the Cabinets
Option A: Using a Spray Gun
Set Up the Spray Gun:
- Use an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray gun or an airless sprayer with a fine finish tip. Adjust the spray gun settings based on the paint’s viscosity and the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Test the Spray Pattern:
- Practice spraying on a piece of cardboard or scrap material to ensure an even spray pattern without runs or spitting.
Spray the Paint:
- Begin by spraying edges and detailed areas first, then move to flat surfaces. Hold the gun perpendicular to the surface and maintain a consistent distance of about 6-8 inches.
- Use a 50% overlap on each pass to ensure uniform coverage. Move the gun at a steady pace to avoid uneven paint application.
Apply Multiple Coats:
- Apply multiple thin coats, allowing each to dry fully and lightly sanding between coats with 320- to 400-grit sandpaper. This helps achieve a smooth, factory-like finish.
Option B: Using a Brush and Roller
Brush Edges and Details:
- Use a high-quality synthetic brush for edges and detailed areas. Apply the paint in long, smooth strokes to minimize brush marks.
Roll Larger Surfaces:
- For larger, flat areas, use a mini foam roller designed for smooth surfaces. Roll in one direction with light pressure to achieve an even coat.
Sand Between Coats:
- Lightly sand between coats with fine-grit sandpaper (320-400 grit) and wipe with a tack cloth. This step is essential to maintain a smooth finish.
Apply Final Coat:
- Apply the final coat slightly wetter to achieve a smooth, glass-like appearance. Allow for extended drying time on the final coat to ensure a durable, long-lasting finish.
Final Touches:
Inspect and Touch Up:
- Check all surfaces under bright light for imperfections. Touch up any areas with a fine brush.
Reassemble the Cabinets:
- Once fully cured, reattach all hardware and rehang doors and drawers. Adjust as needed to ensure everything aligns properly.
Curing Time:
- Allow the paint to cure completely before heavy use. Curing times vary, but a few days to a week is typically recommended for full hardness and durability.